POWERFUL PATTERNS

Meisen Kimonos from the MAK Collection—A Friis Donation

On the occasion of the generous donation of a roughly 60-piece collection from Henriette Friis, the MAK is dedicating an exhibition to Meisen kimonos and haoris from the first half of the 20th century.

12.3.2025—24.8.2025

Central Room MAK Design Lab

The exhibition will present colorful and often large-patterned pieces from the Taishō and Shōwa periods, illustrating the characteristic features of this special form of kimono. Their "all-over-patterns" reflect the cultural exchange between Japan and the West as well as Japan’s engagement with European modernity. For a long time, silk was reserved for Japan’s privileged upper class. Only in the late 19th century, technological innovations in the production of schappe silk and the introduction of aniline dyes led to a greater availability of the material. As a result, the Meisen kimono became affordable at the beginning of the 20th century and evolved into a widely used everyday clothing of the “new woman.”

CURATOR:
Lara Steinhäußer, Curator, MAK Textiles and Carpets Collection

Meisen haori with Fuji motif and cloud pattern

Omeshi Meisen kimono with truncated star and circle motifs

Detail: Omeshi Meisen kimono with truncated star and circle motifs

Meisen haori with floral or firework-like motif in the pattern

Detail: Meisen haori with floral or firework-like motif in the pattern

Meisen kimono with window-like, geometric pattern

Meisen haori, striped, with arrow feather pattern (Yabane)

An exhibition room with colorful kimonos hanging from the ceiling

POWERFUL PATTERNS: Meisen Kimonos from the MAK Collection—A Friis Donation

Media

Meisen haori with Fuji motif and cloud pattern, Japan, 1920–1960 Silk in plain weave, double Ikat, hand-sewn Donation Henriette Friis, Collection of Meisen Silk Kimono © MAK/Christian Mendez

Omeshi Meisen kimono with truncated star and circle motifs, Japan, 1920–1960 Silk crepe fabric with a few metallic threads, double Ikat, hand-sewn Donation Henriette Friis, Collection of Meisen Silk Kimono © MAK/Christian Mendez

Detail: Omeshi Meisen kimono with truncated star and circle motifs, Japan, 1920–1960 Silk crepe fabric with a few metallic threads, double Ikat, hand-sewn Donation Henriette Friis, Collection of Meisen Silk Kimono © MAK/Christian Mendez

Meisen haori with floral or firework-like motif in the pattern, Japan, 1920–1960 Silk in plain weave, double Ikat, hand-sewn Donation Henriette Friis, Collection of Meisen Silk Kimono © MAK/Christian Mendez

Detail: Meisen-Haori mit floralem bzw. feuerwerksähnlichem Motiv im Muster, Japan, 1920–1960 Seide in Leinwandbindung, Doppel-Ikat, handgenäht Donation Henriette Friis, Collection of Meisen Silk Kimono © MAK/Christian Mendez

Meisen kimono with loop pattern, Japan, 1920–1960 Silk in plain weave, double Ikat, hand-sewn Donation Henriette Friis, Collection of Meisen Silk Kimono © MAK/Christian Mendez

Detail: Meisen kimono with loop pattern, Japan, 1920–1960 Silk in plain weave, double Ikat, hand-sewn Donation Henriette Friis, Collection of Meisen Silk Kimono © MAK/Christian Mendez

Meisen kimono with window-like, geometric pattern, Japan, 1920–1960 Silk in plain weave, double Ikat, hand-sewn Donation Henriette Friis, Collection of Meisen Silk Kimono © MAK/Christian Mendez

Meisen kimono with pattern with rose motif, Japan, 1920–1960 Silk in plain weave, double Ikat, hand-sewn Donation Henriette Friis, Collection of Meisen Silk Kimono © MAK/Christian Mendez

Meisen haori, Japan, 1920–1960 Silk in plain weave, double Ikat, hand-sewn Donation Henriette Friis, Collection of Meisen Silk Kimono © MAK/Christian Mendez

Meisen haori, striped, with arrow feather pattern (Yabane), Japan, 1920–1960 Silk in plain weave, warp Ikat, hand-sewn Donation Henriette Friis, Collection of Meisen Silk Kimono © MAK/Christian Mendez

Thong strap sandals (Geta) from the estate of the artist Maria Louise Poschacher (1886-1965), Japan, ca. 1930 © MAK/Stella Riessland

Cooperation

POWERFUL PATTERNS

Meisen Kimonos from the MAK Collection—A Friis Donation

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